Mendoza, Mendoza

Endless blue skies - we still miss it!

Tango and the City

In less than 48 hours, Bling will be on board a flight bound for North America. A hemisphere away, but another reality awaits.

Buenos Aires is a magical city. As with other cities which cast a spell in this manner, it is one of extremes: black, white, gray, and every colour you've ever seen, and many you have yet to dream of.

Yesterday I spent the type of afternoon that I love in Montreal. Summer (or Fall) day, walking around in the sun, along St-Denis close to home, or around in the Old Port. Exploring, discovering the secret haunts that hold treasures yet to be discovered. Palermo Soho is one of those idyllic places that reminds you of most of your great summer memories: everyone is full of life, walking, laughing, enjoying a perfect afternoon. Useful information: Mark's, I was happy to learn, will provide a limonada to go. I had my second ice cream nirvana... for one who is not much of a fan, the way some others are (C), I can definitely see why it is a source of national pride. Give it up for helado! Basically, anything cow related, they've got down to a science : steak, leather, hides, ice cream, dulce de leche.

Today, I got lost in a book. I read, once again, The House of the Spirits. I read at my breakfast table in the middle courtyard, I read in the garden by the pool, I read in the pool, I read at a bustling restaurant in San Telmo. It was strange to be in San Telmo without the Magnificent Seven (well, technically it was only the six of us who met there, but still) - our adventure began there a Sunday afternoon three weeks ago. In some ways I am looking forward to going back, because it feels almost like a cruel joke that our adventures are over if I am still here.

San Telmo is fascinating. It's a human spectacle, live comedy, dancing, singing, everything unfolding in front of you. Antiques markets and vendors, street performers, fresh orange juice stands, avant-garde designers, penultimate hipster-chic boutiques, hundreds of artisans on a seemingly endless street. Graffiti on some walls, murals on others, where children played three weeks ago is now another vendor. And you know next week it will be entirely different, but the same.

Lost in a book is really lost in someone's words. Isabel Allende is one of those writers who tend to capture your imagination with the first sentence. I've never considered why. The book in question takes place over a long lifetime, in Chile. It is fascinating for the layers of human nature it exposes, but moreover, for the story of the country that it tells - the collision of politics and people, families, stories.

In a sense, I think I have been lost here especially these last few days. I mean this literally and figuratively. Literally because Buenos Aires is the tango in a city. Streets which seem to be in a standard grid suddenly bend at an 130 degree angle. The tango steps which seem basic are entirely different when your partner is changing your very direction at every second step. It can be mildly disorientating when, while walking along a same street, you come to cross the street you were parallel to. I'm stubborn and I love to explore, but I would be lying if I didn't admit to once in a while sneaking out the book and confirming a few blocks later I am in fact going the exact opposite direction that I intended to. Generally, though, I manage to walk until I know where I am without needing the book although never entirely positive that I'm going in the right direction until I am.

On your own, you tend to see things in a much different manner than with a group. More as an observer in some ways, less so in others. Less because you can blend in. More because you walk through.

One minute you are driving along an avenue with breathtaking architecture that speaks of grandeur, opulence, wealth past and present, and the next, on a dirty, desolate block with unmemorable structures, with people collecting recyclables out of the garbage with improvised trolleys or carts, to return for the money. A lifetime away, others sort through my own recycling for the returnables, on my own architecturally-interesting street. The difference, I think, is that here it is another example of the poverty which is as common here as it is rare at home.

This isn't a safe city. That isn't to say it is all-out dangerous, but it isn't safe. It takes time to adjust to taking precautions that are the norm here. In a group, less to worry about. For example, locals never take a cab at night if it wasn't called from the radio taxi service. Even in the day, radio taxi is preferred. Doors are locked by a series of locks, windows barred, purses held close at all times. Soho is a bit of an exception, but it's certainly not the norm. Certain neighbourhoods are safe enough to walk around in after dark, others are frankly frightening. Nothing unusual but not something you get used to. I think it's not nearly as easy to lose sight of the fact that this city defines lives between the haves than the have nots than it is at home. You see that is is more than a question of choices and opportunities.

Part of what makes Buenos Aires is that it is familiar and exotic at once. It wouldn't be much of a challenge if everyone spoke Spanish I understand perfectly, if the streets didn't tango, if I was perfectly at ease although I feel quite at home. Suffice it to say, we've scratched the surface and we're hooked. They say it takes ten years to even begin to master the tango...

Bling & Bollywood Set Sail

Tuesday was a sad but chill day. We hung out by the pool most of the day, I went to Bar 6 then Mark's with E and then the girls, and eventually the sad moment of goodbye arrived.

Classic : Hollywood jammed against the window of the taxi as it pulled away.

And then there were two. Bollywood and I went to our respective new homes, settled in, and eventually met up at a great bistro-parilla recommended by the owner of my what must be called boutique b & b. Don Justo, near Plaza Guëmes. Fabulous dinner accompanied by a brilliant bottle of Norton Cab Sauv 2005 (not DOC) - highly highly recommended, really light and smooth for a cab. And then, to continue the tradition - a shared dessert. Flambeed strawberries with vanilla helado - delish.

Yesterday, I properly explored Palermo, and discovered the most brilliant leather designer. More on that later, but if you are willing to take a leap of faith, let me know and I can perhaps pick up some bags for y'all. Email me if interested. Seriously looking into importing them, I can't get over the price points, style caliber, and quality. They are simple, innovative, but nor overly trendy or overly structured.

Later on, I met up with Bollywood in the Microcentro - her mom's flight was delayed until midnight. We walked around there, Monserrat, and Florida. We had a drink at Il Gran Cafe, where the waiter remembered me from two weeks ago (sniff) when I met up with the fabulous chicas who had lunched there (who he had kicked off other patrons for).

We had heard that Opera Bay, the club on the water which looks like the Sydney Opera house, has a great afterwork drinks scene on Wednesdays. Essentially, the 5 à 7 of Thursdays in Montreal. We actually rushed over, since it was nearing 9 pm, thinking it might be dying down by then. In most cities, it dies down around late dinner time... and picks up a bit among those who go out on weeknights a bit later. We were let in line but some guys who of course thereafter wanted to go on a South American walk... we said no, and then stopped at the spot where you pay cover. We almost didn't go in, balking at the 30 pesos (with a free drink, which is 15 pesos) cover charge - about $12.50 - but actually the exact same cover charge of Saturday night. But we decided, as we always do - we are here, let's make the most of it - so we went in.

Opera Bay has, we thought, about three main rooms with adjoining lounge areas, and then a large terrasse that connects some of them. We expected the main one of those to be open, perhaps with some tables, and people to be chillin, having drinks sitting, and then standing with drinks on the terrasse. We were wrong. Very wrong.

It was about three times as busy as Saturday night. Every room was PACKED. It was, literally, a sea of shirts. And the crowd was our age or older. We had previously found that it was generally a bit of a younger crowd, with the minority being above 28. Not last night. On top of the state of the place, packed, dancing everywhere, mad music - we discovered entirely new areas and elevated levels we had no idea even existed! A front upper terrasse! Two inside raised levels! One we saw but never even got to! A back portion of the terrasse we had never gotten to. The place just goes on and on. And also, a closed dining room for the supper club offered on Saturday nights. It was probably the busiest and biggest club I've been to. And it was a Wednesday. Bollywood and Bling were properly astounded.

Bollywood left today to continue her adventures around Argentina with her mom. She will eventually be back in Buenos Aires, but for now, it's just Blingos Aires. And then there was one...

I have finally confirmed that I leave next Tuesday. Sigh. So much to do until then! Looking forward to seeing everyone, but I have to say it seems like it's a tough adjustment! Oyo and ole!

Did You Know?

Your typical dill (and similar) pickles are in fact made from cucumbers.

Approximately three out of seven chicas did not.

Useful link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dill_pickle

BsAs & The Magnificent Seven - the final hours

This portion of our adventures as the Magnificent Seven ends today. Punky left Sunday, and the rest of the crew leaves today for London and Vancouver. We had a lovely final breakfast at HOME, said goodbye to the fabulous loft, and are preparing to just have a chilled out afternoon by the pool and around SOHO on final errands. The girls went to a mall yesterday and went insane - the shopping bags, when lined up, only fit in a wide angle photo when taken from above at an angle! Amazing shopping.

Saturday was explored the Belgrano area - a bit more residential but also with some busy major streets, plazas, and artisans of all sorts. Great shopping! Fantastic lunch on a delightful terrasse. We then went to La Boca area to visit the famous Caminito area - incredible, all the buildings are painted vibrant colours, and there is live tango on small stages in front of restaurants everywhere.

We went for dinner to Bar Uriarte - outstanding. Such great food, amazing ambiance - made perfect with some wine from our beloved Achaval Ferrer. What is just so amazing here is the sheer quantity of fantastic restaurants. They are gorgeous, amazingly designed, great menus - and amazing prices. The spaces are just so interesting, but unique. I often find elsewhere that it´s always more of the same - chic supperclubs who are either very white or very dark - here they are all different from each other and make use of the space in so many innovative ways.

We then stopped into the Hotel Faena - WOW. I don´t think I have ever been as blown away by a design that is as opulent as it is modernly chic...it just is over the top in the right way. Finally, we went dancing to the club called Opera Bay which is right on the water in Puerto Madero. Basically, it looks like a small version of the Sydney Opera House - but it´s a huge club, with many rooms featuring different types of music. An amazing terrasse with views of the city skyline at night, paired with the stars above... which was equally stunning as we saw the sun rise from there as well. What a night... We arrived home some time after 8 a.m., as our taxis raced each other through the streets (two drivers who were friends) - what an experience!

Sunday, we took it fairly easy given the fact we got almost no sleep... Sadly, Punky was leaving that night so we had to say our goodbyes at about 2 p.m., as the six of us and E went to go see a football game. The stadium of the Boca Juniors is of course in Boca, which is a truly sketchy area. Coming back the night before in the cab was a bit of a scary experience - other than the small touristy area, it is clearly NOT a safe place to be. The game was a lot of fun - they won 5 to 1 so not that exciting for that reason, but such an amazing atmosphere. The section where the serious fans are was packed, and they were on their feet, jumping, dancing, waving their arms, singing, playing drums the ENTIRE game. It was incredible!!! Certainly made the snippets of music played at hockey games seem pathetic! And for me, such a highlight to see Riquelme play in person :) Once home, we had a rest and then went to Olson, another notable restaurant, for a great meal. The space was again fantastic - the apps incredible, but generally not the best mains we´ve had, and rather bad service. Not especially recommended for the food but nice ambiance and gorgeous terrasse (Uriarte was amazing all the way).

Monday, I visited the MALBA museum with E, walked around Recoleta, and checked into my new home (moving from Home hotel) - a stunning bed and breakfast with this crazy courtyard and backyard with a pool! I love it! I have the slickest mini-apartment (formerly E's). We then spent a lovely evening just relaxing in the Loft, final hanging out and laughing on the patio with the fragrant trees and a few stars above. Reality will be soon enough - I´ve seen pics of the recent snowstorm, and while I am excited at the possibility of doing more skiing once back - in my mind, I´m going back to Montreal in the summer! (definitely need to stop that thinking). That´s it for now... there will be more excessively fabulous M7 Adventures - and I will continue posting Bling BsAs reports as I am here for another 8 days. Plans are already in the works for Glam's 40th and Punky's 30th (same year), and my own Bling 30 - we're thinking Bling Beirut or Bling Bombay... look for it in 2008!

We came, we saw, we partied, we debauched, we dined, we laughed, we wined, we wined more... and we fell in love with this city.

We will definitely be back, maybe even for an extended stay...and when one comes, the six others are sure to follow.

Every legendary party must come to an end... it may be at 8 a.m. the next day - or in this case, 16 days of sheer madness and excessively fabulous adventures later. And now, we put on the shades, pop a xanex, apply some lipgloss and face the paparazzi in our home countries.

Signing out for the M7 chicas - OYO & OLE!

BsAs & The Art of Living Fabulously

Buenos Aires is an amazing city. Every block is a microcosm in and of itself, there are none without a few businesses and a great boutique or two. There are so many stores in this city we are convinced the main passtime must be shopping! (of course, we love this). Strolling through Soho (Palermo) yesterday, we once again ventured into what Chaos deemed 'another bar masquerading as a clothing store' - during the day many loungey bars will rent out space to a few vendors who sell clothing and jewellery. Great finds!

Since we arrived Thursday we have been exploring Palermo and Recoleta - by day, and by night, and by early the next morning! We have been to two of the important club nights - Club 69 at Niceto, and Rumi last night. This is a house electronica city, and the djs do not disappoint. Danger was ready to propose to each of them by the end of the night, and this morning we had a major philosophical discussion as to whether or not the dj at Rumi was better than Lance at the Mercury back in the day - high praise indeed.

Last night we met up with friends of A who live here and it was a great night. We first started with a wine tasting which took place in about 20 different places in the gorgeous Recoleta area - all of these places being high end design stores or clothing boutiques. It was amazing to see all kinds of people just walking around the street with wineglasses in hand, and a cellist playing outside on a corner, lit by the glow of the streetlights, cars, and ambiant light from the boutique window. We incidentally met several other travelers, and added on a chica to our crew, E from Seattle, on her first day in BsAs alone and was a natural fit to the group, which was 12 strong by then. Therefter, we went for dinner at Juana M, which is beyond recommended. We got several cuts of beef and really got to see the difference (such great quality, too) - but the showstopper was the venue. Large space, concrete floors, huge white bahaus (i think) style white tables and chairs, all kinds of huge colourful canvasses of artwork everywhere, packed tables of groups... kind of like an upscale art studio loft. Fabulous! At about 1:45 we raced home to change, and made it to Rumi for about 3 and the night lasted much longer from then. We ran into some american guys we had met a bar from the night before, and generally just had a blast on the dancefloor....

The lifestyle here is fantastic...it is chilled but in a naturally elegant kind of way. Today, we will visit La Boca and Belgrano just to walk around and explore (yesterday we visited the cemetary in Recoleta which has all kinds of beautiful mausoleums and is where Evita was um burried, I guess, and the Design Centre which has a ton of amazing artistic design boutiques... and great daquiris...)...tonight is a big night out in Puerto Madero. It's a beautiful day (last night was actually RAINY rainy rainy) ... oyo and ole!

This city is truly life as fabulous...

Andean Adventure for the Magnificent Seven

Today we took a bus tour, high up into the Andes. We awoke to rain, thunder and lightening and were quite convinced the trip would be cancelled. But, the weather is often fleeting here and by the time we were all set to go, it had cleared up and was preparing to become yet another hot day in Mendoza.

The vistas were amazing and the roads at times quite astounding! They certainly seemed almost too small for a bus, but there were many more even larger than ours making the trek. Mendoza City is at approximately 700 ft above sea level and by the time we stopped for the last time, it was extremely cold (maybe not quite freezing, although we were as high as some peaks with snow on them) and we were thereabouts of 5000-something feet up. Tupungato was right across from us, which is the highest peak in the western hemisphere. In fact, we were very briefly in Chile as the highest visitor area is right along the Argentine-Chilean border. It was an allday trip and certainly a great experience to round out the winery tours, since from every winery we visited we marvelled at the view of the mountains in the background. The mountains are simply incredible, and we weren´t at all surprized when our guide noted that the movie Seven Years in Tibet was filmed in these mountains and not in the Himalayas or New Zealand.

Of course, hundreds of photos were taken, but for now they remain on happy little memory cards that I guard as closely as my passport. Punky and Hollywood have already set back on their way to Buenos Aires, and the rest of us will take flight tomorrow morning.

And so, the Magnificent Seven must amend our previous calculations : Seven girls, six destinations, three countries... trouble and laughs no matter how you add it up. Oyo and Ole!