Sunday, March 25, 2007
Tango and the City
In less than 48 hours, Bling will be on board a flight bound for North America. A hemisphere away, but another reality awaits.
Buenos Aires is a magical city. As with other cities which cast a spell in this manner, it is one of extremes: black, white, gray, and every colour you've ever seen, and many you have yet to dream of.
Yesterday I spent the type of afternoon that I love in Montreal. Summer (or Fall) day, walking around in the sun, along St-Denis close to home, or around in the Old Port. Exploring, discovering the secret haunts that hold treasures yet to be discovered. Palermo Soho is one of those idyllic places that reminds you of most of your great summer memories: everyone is full of life, walking, laughing, enjoying a perfect afternoon. Useful information: Mark's, I was happy to learn, will provide a limonada to go. I had my second ice cream nirvana... for one who is not much of a fan, the way some others are (C), I can definitely see why it is a source of national pride. Give it up for helado! Basically, anything cow related, they've got down to a science : steak, leather, hides, ice cream, dulce de leche.
Today, I got lost in a book. I read, once again, The House of the Spirits. I read at my breakfast table in the middle courtyard, I read in the garden by the pool, I read in the pool, I read at a bustling restaurant in San Telmo. It was strange to be in San Telmo without the Magnificent Seven (well, technically it was only the six of us who met there, but still) - our adventure began there a Sunday afternoon three weeks ago. In some ways I am looking forward to going back, because it feels almost like a cruel joke that our adventures are over if I am still here.
San Telmo is fascinating. It's a human spectacle, live comedy, dancing, singing, everything unfolding in front of you. Antiques markets and vendors, street performers, fresh orange juice stands, avant-garde designers, penultimate hipster-chic boutiques, hundreds of artisans on a seemingly endless street. Graffiti on some walls, murals on others, where children played three weeks ago is now another vendor. And you know next week it will be entirely different, but the same.
Lost in a book is really lost in someone's words. Isabel Allende is one of those writers who tend to capture your imagination with the first sentence. I've never considered why. The book in question takes place over a long lifetime, in Chile. It is fascinating for the layers of human nature it exposes, but moreover, for the story of the country that it tells - the collision of politics and people, families, stories.
In a sense, I think I have been lost here especially these last few days. I mean this literally and figuratively. Literally because Buenos Aires is the tango in a city. Streets which seem to be in a standard grid suddenly bend at an 130 degree angle. The tango steps which seem basic are entirely different when your partner is changing your very direction at every second step. It can be mildly disorientating when, while walking along a same street, you come to cross the street you were parallel to. I'm stubborn and I love to explore, but I would be lying if I didn't admit to once in a while sneaking out the book and confirming a few blocks later I am in fact going the exact opposite direction that I intended to. Generally, though, I manage to walk until I know where I am without needing the book although never entirely positive that I'm going in the right direction until I am.
On your own, you tend to see things in a much different manner than with a group. More as an observer in some ways, less so in others. Less because you can blend in. More because you walk through.
One minute you are driving along an avenue with breathtaking architecture that speaks of grandeur, opulence, wealth past and present, and the next, on a dirty, desolate block with unmemorable structures, with people collecting recyclables out of the garbage with improvised trolleys or carts, to return for the money. A lifetime away, others sort through my own recycling for the returnables, on my own architecturally-interesting street. The difference, I think, is that here it is another example of the poverty which is as common here as it is rare at home.
This isn't a safe city. That isn't to say it is all-out dangerous, but it isn't safe. It takes time to adjust to taking precautions that are the norm here. In a group, less to worry about. For example, locals never take a cab at night if it wasn't called from the radio taxi service. Even in the day, radio taxi is preferred. Doors are locked by a series of locks, windows barred, purses held close at all times. Soho is a bit of an exception, but it's certainly not the norm. Certain neighbourhoods are safe enough to walk around in after dark, others are frankly frightening. Nothing unusual but not something you get used to. I think it's not nearly as easy to lose sight of the fact that this city defines lives between the haves than the have nots than it is at home. You see that is is more than a question of choices and opportunities.
Part of what makes Buenos Aires is that it is familiar and exotic at once. It wouldn't be much of a challenge if everyone spoke Spanish I understand perfectly, if the streets didn't tango, if I was perfectly at ease although I feel quite at home. Suffice it to say, we've scratched the surface and we're hooked. They say it takes ten years to even begin to master the tango...
Thursday, March 22, 2007
Bling & Bollywood Set Sail
Tuesday was a sad but chill day. We hung out by the pool most of the day, I went to Bar 6 then Mark's with E and then the girls, and eventually the sad moment of goodbye arrived.
Classic : Hollywood jammed against the window of the taxi as it pulled away.
And then there were two. Bollywood and I went to our respective new homes, settled in, and eventually met up at a great bistro-parilla recommended by the owner of my what must be called boutique b & b. Don Justo, near Plaza Guëmes. Fabulous dinner accompanied by a brilliant bottle of Norton Cab Sauv 2005 (not DOC) - highly highly recommended, really light and smooth for a cab. And then, to continue the tradition - a shared dessert. Flambeed strawberries with vanilla helado - delish.
Yesterday, I properly explored Palermo, and discovered the most brilliant leather designer. More on that later, but if you are willing to take a leap of faith, let me know and I can perhaps pick up some bags for y'all. Email me if interested. Seriously looking into importing them, I can't get over the price points, style caliber, and quality. They are simple, innovative, but nor overly trendy or overly structured.
Later on, I met up with Bollywood in the Microcentro - her mom's flight was delayed until midnight. We walked around there, Monserrat, and Florida. We had a drink at Il Gran Cafe, where the waiter remembered me from two weeks ago (sniff) when I met up with the fabulous chicas who had lunched there (who he had kicked off other patrons for).
We had heard that Opera Bay, the club on the water which looks like the Sydney Opera house, has a great afterwork drinks scene on Wednesdays. Essentially, the 5 à 7 of Thursdays in Montreal. We actually rushed over, since it was nearing 9 pm, thinking it might be dying down by then. In most cities, it dies down around late dinner time... and picks up a bit among those who go out on weeknights a bit later. We were let in line but some guys who of course thereafter wanted to go on a South American walk... we said no, and then stopped at the spot where you pay cover. We almost didn't go in, balking at the 30 pesos (with a free drink, which is 15 pesos) cover charge - about $12.50 - but actually the exact same cover charge of Saturday night. But we decided, as we always do - we are here, let's make the most of it - so we went in.
Opera Bay has, we thought, about three main rooms with adjoining lounge areas, and then a large terrasse that connects some of them. We expected the main one of those to be open, perhaps with some tables, and people to be chillin, having drinks sitting, and then standing with drinks on the terrasse. We were wrong. Very wrong.
It was about three times as busy as Saturday night. Every room was PACKED. It was, literally, a sea of shirts. And the crowd was our age or older. We had previously found that it was generally a bit of a younger crowd, with the minority being above 28. Not last night. On top of the state of the place, packed, dancing everywhere, mad music - we discovered entirely new areas and elevated levels we had no idea even existed! A front upper terrasse! Two inside raised levels! One we saw but never even got to! A back portion of the terrasse we had never gotten to. The place just goes on and on. And also, a closed dining room for the supper club offered on Saturday nights. It was probably the busiest and biggest club I've been to. And it was a Wednesday. Bollywood and Bling were properly astounded.
Bollywood left today to continue her adventures around Argentina with her mom. She will eventually be back in Buenos Aires, but for now, it's just Blingos Aires. And then there was one...
I have finally confirmed that I leave next Tuesday. Sigh. So much to do until then! Looking forward to seeing everyone, but I have to say it seems like it's a tough adjustment! Oyo and ole!
Classic : Hollywood jammed against the window of the taxi as it pulled away.
And then there were two. Bollywood and I went to our respective new homes, settled in, and eventually met up at a great bistro-parilla recommended by the owner of my what must be called boutique b & b. Don Justo, near Plaza Guëmes. Fabulous dinner accompanied by a brilliant bottle of Norton Cab Sauv 2005 (not DOC) - highly highly recommended, really light and smooth for a cab. And then, to continue the tradition - a shared dessert. Flambeed strawberries with vanilla helado - delish.
Yesterday, I properly explored Palermo, and discovered the most brilliant leather designer. More on that later, but if you are willing to take a leap of faith, let me know and I can perhaps pick up some bags for y'all. Email me if interested. Seriously looking into importing them, I can't get over the price points, style caliber, and quality. They are simple, innovative, but nor overly trendy or overly structured.
Later on, I met up with Bollywood in the Microcentro - her mom's flight was delayed until midnight. We walked around there, Monserrat, and Florida. We had a drink at Il Gran Cafe, where the waiter remembered me from two weeks ago (sniff) when I met up with the fabulous chicas who had lunched there (who he had kicked off other patrons for).
We had heard that Opera Bay, the club on the water which looks like the Sydney Opera house, has a great afterwork drinks scene on Wednesdays. Essentially, the 5 à 7 of Thursdays in Montreal. We actually rushed over, since it was nearing 9 pm, thinking it might be dying down by then. In most cities, it dies down around late dinner time... and picks up a bit among those who go out on weeknights a bit later. We were let in line but some guys who of course thereafter wanted to go on a South American walk... we said no, and then stopped at the spot where you pay cover. We almost didn't go in, balking at the 30 pesos (with a free drink, which is 15 pesos) cover charge - about $12.50 - but actually the exact same cover charge of Saturday night. But we decided, as we always do - we are here, let's make the most of it - so we went in.
Opera Bay has, we thought, about three main rooms with adjoining lounge areas, and then a large terrasse that connects some of them. We expected the main one of those to be open, perhaps with some tables, and people to be chillin, having drinks sitting, and then standing with drinks on the terrasse. We were wrong. Very wrong.
It was about three times as busy as Saturday night. Every room was PACKED. It was, literally, a sea of shirts. And the crowd was our age or older. We had previously found that it was generally a bit of a younger crowd, with the minority being above 28. Not last night. On top of the state of the place, packed, dancing everywhere, mad music - we discovered entirely new areas and elevated levels we had no idea even existed! A front upper terrasse! Two inside raised levels! One we saw but never even got to! A back portion of the terrasse we had never gotten to. The place just goes on and on. And also, a closed dining room for the supper club offered on Saturday nights. It was probably the busiest and biggest club I've been to. And it was a Wednesday. Bollywood and Bling were properly astounded.
Bollywood left today to continue her adventures around Argentina with her mom. She will eventually be back in Buenos Aires, but for now, it's just Blingos Aires. And then there was one...
I have finally confirmed that I leave next Tuesday. Sigh. So much to do until then! Looking forward to seeing everyone, but I have to say it seems like it's a tough adjustment! Oyo and ole!
Did You Know?
Your typical dill (and similar) pickles are in fact made from cucumbers.
Approximately three out of seven chicas did not.
Useful link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dill_pickle
Approximately three out of seven chicas did not.
Useful link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dill_pickle
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
BsAs & The Magnificent Seven - the final hours
This portion of our adventures as the Magnificent Seven ends today. Punky left Sunday, and the rest of the crew leaves today for London and Vancouver. We had a lovely final breakfast at HOME, said goodbye to the fabulous loft, and are preparing to just have a chilled out afternoon by the pool and around SOHO on final errands. The girls went to a mall yesterday and went insane - the shopping bags, when lined up, only fit in a wide angle photo when taken from above at an angle! Amazing shopping.
Saturday was explored the Belgrano area - a bit more residential but also with some busy major streets, plazas, and artisans of all sorts. Great shopping! Fantastic lunch on a delightful terrasse. We then went to La Boca area to visit the famous Caminito area - incredible, all the buildings are painted vibrant colours, and there is live tango on small stages in front of restaurants everywhere.
Saturday was explored the Belgrano area - a bit more residential but also with some busy major streets, plazas, and artisans of all sorts. Great shopping! Fantastic lunch on a delightful terrasse. We then went to La Boca area to visit the famous Caminito area - incredible, all the buildings are painted vibrant colours, and there is live tango on small stages in front of restaurants everywhere.
We went for dinner to Bar Uriarte - outstanding. Such great food, amazing ambiance - made perfect with some wine from our beloved Achaval Ferrer. What is just so amazing here is the sheer quantity of fantastic restaurants. They are gorgeous, amazingly designed, great menus - and amazing prices. The spaces are just so interesting, but unique. I often find elsewhere that it´s always more of the same - chic supperclubs who are either very white or very dark - here they are all different from each other and make use of the space in so many innovative ways.
We then stopped into the Hotel Faena - WOW. I don´t think I have ever been as blown away by a design that is as opulent as it is modernly chic...it just is over the top in the right way. Finally, we went dancing to the club called Opera Bay which is right on the water in Puerto Madero. Basically, it looks like a small version of the Sydney Opera House - but it´s a huge club, with many rooms featuring different types of music. An amazing terrasse with views of the city skyline at night, paired with the stars above... which was equally stunning as we saw the sun rise from there as well. What a night... We arrived home some time after 8 a.m., as our taxis raced each other through the streets (two drivers who were friends) - what an experience!
Sunday, we took it fairly easy given the fact we got almost no sleep... Sadly, Punky was leaving that night so we had to say our goodbyes at about 2 p.m., as the six of us and E went to go see a football game. The stadium of the Boca Juniors is of course in Boca, which is a truly sketchy area. Coming back the night before in the cab was a bit of a scary experience - other than the small touristy area, it is clearly NOT a safe place to be. The game was a lot of fun - they won 5 to 1 so not that exciting for that reason, but such an amazing atmosphere. The section where the serious fans are was packed, and they were on their feet, jumping, dancing, waving their arms, singing, playing drums the ENTIRE game. It was incredible!!! Certainly made the snippets of music played at hockey games seem pathetic! And for me, such a highlight to see Riquelme play in person :) Once home, we had a rest and then went to Olson, another notable restaurant, for a great meal. The space was again fantastic - the apps incredible, but generally not the best mains we´ve had, and rather bad service. Not especially recommended for the food but nice ambiance and gorgeous terrasse (Uriarte was amazing all the way).
We came, we saw, we partied, we debauched, we dined, we laughed, we wined, we wined more... and we fell in love with this city.
We will definitely be back, maybe even for an extended stay...and when one comes, the six others are sure to follow.
Every legendary party must come to an end... it may be at 8 a.m. the next day - or in this case, 16 days of sheer madness and excessively fabulous adventures later. And now, we put on the shades, pop a xanex, apply some lipgloss and face the paparazzi in our home countries.
Signing out for the M7 chicas - OYO & OLE!
Saturday, March 17, 2007
BsAs & The Art of Living Fabulously
Buenos Aires is an amazing city. Every block is a microcosm in and of itself, there are none without a few businesses and a great boutique or two. There are so many stores in this city we are convinced the main passtime must be shopping! (of course, we love this). Strolling through Soho (Palermo) yesterday, we once again ventured into what Chaos deemed 'another bar masquerading as a clothing store' - during the day many loungey bars will rent out space to a few vendors who sell clothing and jewellery. Great finds!
Since we arrived Thursday we have been exploring Palermo and Recoleta - by day, and by night, and by early the next morning! We have been to two of the important club nights - Club 69 at Niceto, and Rumi last night. This is a house electronica city, and the djs do not disappoint. Danger was ready to propose to each of them by the end of the night, and this morning we had a major philosophical discussion as to whether or not the dj at Rumi was better than Lance at the Mercury back in the day - high praise indeed.
Last night we met up with friends of A who live here and it was a great night. We first started with a wine tasting which took place in about 20 different places in the gorgeous Recoleta area - all of these places being high end design stores or clothing boutiques. It was amazing to see all kinds of people just walking around the street with wineglasses in hand, and a cellist playing outside on a corner, lit by the glow of the streetlights, cars, and ambiant light from the boutique window. We incidentally met several other travelers, and added on a chica to our crew, E from Seattle, on her first day in BsAs alone and was a natural fit to the group, which was 12 strong by then. Therefter, we went for dinner at Juana M, which is beyond recommended. We got several cuts of beef and really got to see the difference (such great quality, too) - but the showstopper was the venue. Large space, concrete floors, huge white bahaus (i think) style white tables and chairs, all kinds of huge colourful canvasses of artwork everywhere, packed tables of groups... kind of like an upscale art studio loft. Fabulous! At about 1:45 we raced home to change, and made it to Rumi for about 3 and the night lasted much longer from then. We ran into some american guys we had met a bar from the night before, and generally just had a blast on the dancefloor....
The lifestyle here is fantastic...it is chilled but in a naturally elegant kind of way. Today, we will visit La Boca and Belgrano just to walk around and explore (yesterday we visited the cemetary in Recoleta which has all kinds of beautiful mausoleums and is where Evita was um burried, I guess, and the Design Centre which has a ton of amazing artistic design boutiques... and great daquiris...)...tonight is a big night out in Puerto Madero. It's a beautiful day (last night was actually RAINY rainy rainy) ... oyo and ole!
This city is truly life as fabulous...
Since we arrived Thursday we have been exploring Palermo and Recoleta - by day, and by night, and by early the next morning! We have been to two of the important club nights - Club 69 at Niceto, and Rumi last night. This is a house electronica city, and the djs do not disappoint. Danger was ready to propose to each of them by the end of the night, and this morning we had a major philosophical discussion as to whether or not the dj at Rumi was better than Lance at the Mercury back in the day - high praise indeed.
Last night we met up with friends of A who live here and it was a great night. We first started with a wine tasting which took place in about 20 different places in the gorgeous Recoleta area - all of these places being high end design stores or clothing boutiques. It was amazing to see all kinds of people just walking around the street with wineglasses in hand, and a cellist playing outside on a corner, lit by the glow of the streetlights, cars, and ambiant light from the boutique window. We incidentally met several other travelers, and added on a chica to our crew, E from Seattle, on her first day in BsAs alone and was a natural fit to the group, which was 12 strong by then. Therefter, we went for dinner at Juana M, which is beyond recommended. We got several cuts of beef and really got to see the difference (such great quality, too) - but the showstopper was the venue. Large space, concrete floors, huge white bahaus (i think) style white tables and chairs, all kinds of huge colourful canvasses of artwork everywhere, packed tables of groups... kind of like an upscale art studio loft. Fabulous! At about 1:45 we raced home to change, and made it to Rumi for about 3 and the night lasted much longer from then. We ran into some american guys we had met a bar from the night before, and generally just had a blast on the dancefloor....
The lifestyle here is fantastic...it is chilled but in a naturally elegant kind of way. Today, we will visit La Boca and Belgrano just to walk around and explore (yesterday we visited the cemetary in Recoleta which has all kinds of beautiful mausoleums and is where Evita was um burried, I guess, and the Design Centre which has a ton of amazing artistic design boutiques... and great daquiris...)...tonight is a big night out in Puerto Madero. It's a beautiful day (last night was actually RAINY rainy rainy) ... oyo and ole!
This city is truly life as fabulous...
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Andean Adventure for the Magnificent Seven
Today we took a bus tour, high up into the Andes. We awoke to rain, thunder and lightening and were quite convinced the trip would be cancelled. But, the weather is often fleeting here and by the time we were all set to go, it had cleared up and was preparing to become yet another hot day in Mendoza.
The vistas were amazing and the roads at times quite astounding! They certainly seemed almost too small for a bus, but there were many more even larger than ours making the trek. Mendoza City is at approximately 700 ft above sea level and by the time we stopped for the last time, it was extremely cold (maybe not quite freezing, although we were as high as some peaks with snow on them) and we were thereabouts of 5000-something feet up. Tupungato was right across from us, which is the highest peak in the western hemisphere. In fact, we were very briefly in Chile as the highest visitor area is right along the Argentine-Chilean border. It was an allday trip and certainly a great experience to round out the winery tours, since from every winery we visited we marvelled at the view of the mountains in the background. The mountains are simply incredible, and we weren´t at all surprized when our guide noted that the movie Seven Years in Tibet was filmed in these mountains and not in the Himalayas or New Zealand.
Of course, hundreds of photos were taken, but for now they remain on happy little memory cards that I guard as closely as my passport. Punky and Hollywood have already set back on their way to Buenos Aires, and the rest of us will take flight tomorrow morning.
And so, the Magnificent Seven must amend our previous calculations : Seven girls, six destinations, three countries... trouble and laughs no matter how you add it up. Oyo and Ole!
A Perfect Day
I don't think a more perfect experience than this day can exist. A gorgeous hot sunny day in Mendoza, we went to the Norton winery for 11 a.m. There, we had an amazing and comprehensive tour of one of the most important wineries in Argentina, and one of my personal favourites. We tasted a ton of fantastic wines and had the most amazing host, Lorena. The property is amazing and the views of the Andes are incredible. The whole building is just gorgeous. The real highlight was the lunch, a traditional asado - under a huge tree in the grass, far too much food, so much wine, so many laughs. Just an amazing experience in a phenomenal setting that can't be done justice when I'm this tired! Perhaps more detail on another day. After, we went to Achaval Ferrer, a boutique winery and it was so interesting since it is such a small facility. We got to see them in production and try wines which were never even made available to the market (and met one of the owners!). Very high quality, exceptionally informative tour... again more later. Finally, we came home on our minibus, did a small walk around some of the important plazas of Mendoza, and went for a great Mexican dinner with our Norton host Lorena, who is just fantastic. Tomorrow, or rather, in a few hours (ouch), we are taking a tour up to the mountains... can't wait! Oyo and Ole!
Monday, March 12, 2007
Monday Madness in Mendoza
At ten to seven yesterday morning, we made a mad dash from the club back to our hotel to pack up for our minibus picking us up at 8 a.m. It was another mad night in Punta del Este although this time we did throw in a disco nap from 12-1 or so knowing the rules of the game. Again, what happens in Punta stays in Punta.
We flew from Montevideo to Buenos Aires, and then on to Mendoza finally arriving in the late afternoon to our very bohemian hostel. It has a gorgeous garden with a mini-pool and hammocks here and there. There is a huge, friendly and playful German Shepherd named Austin who is great. We met several Canadians and eventually went out to dinner as a group of 14 or so nearby - great food, tons of wine. Sleeping quarters are a bit tight - seven of us in a room for six (the twins cuddle), but hey, it's not like we're not tough enough ;)
Today was truly fabulous. The Rough Guide suggested taking local busses to the winery areas, but once Punky and I went to the bus station last night and figured out how it all worked, we established it would not be even close to fabulous. We're tough but not quite that rough! That adventure itself we named Tour de Sketchy - Mendoza Edition, featuring Punky and Bling. Basically, we would have arrived out in the middle of... Mendoza region, far too early, and had no hope of getting from winery to winery, miles apart. So we hired a mini-bus with a driver! Definitely the way to go.
We visited first Catena Zapata, a beautiful winery honouring the indigenous traditions of the land, inspired by the Mayan pyramids in Mexico. (the owner, 3rd of 4 generations who have run the company) actually went on a trip to Mexico and brought along the architect. It is made entirely of materials (stone, marble, rosewood) from different areas of Argentina. Their wines are actually my favourite of what is easily available in Canada. The integrity of the wine and wine process is very high and traditional but modern at the same time. Essentially, they use a very high-tech approach to make sure the product is very high quality in a traditional sense, with as little interference of the grapes as possible. They also were the first in the area to do microvarietals, I believe is the term. Meaning, they make blends of e.g. malbec, from malbec grapes planted at 1200 ft, 940 ft, and 840 ft above sea level. (unless it's metres!). The difference in altitude makes a significant difference in the grapes grown.
After, we went to Ruca Malen, a much more modern facility. Beautiful structure with a stunning lunch and tasting room, overlooking the fields with a view of the Andes which is amazing. Modern facily, moderm company, modern and experimental practices. We had a bite to eat and tried several of their wines, but this would certainly be one to return for their full lunch. Sitting on the terrasse with the view reminded me of being at an incredible elegant cottage... although much, much different of course!
Then, to Chandon for a tour... in Spanish. It was interesting however not nearly as memorable as the others so that's all I'll say on it!
Last, and the favourite for everyone else (mine just had to be Catena, simply because I was so looking forward to it), was Septima. Beautiful facility once again, the views were probably the best of the mountains, and a really interesting tour. We saw a little more of the lab, the bottling process, and the inside of the winery. Perhaps because it was smaller than the others we got more of a feel for the process and the winery. It is recommended for visiting at sunset but at any hour it is gorgeous.
Now, we are just relaxing and trying to work out some logistics for Wednesday. Seeing the mountains all day, so impressive, we decided we are going to try and get ourselves to them on Wednesday! Et c'est tout! It is REALLY hot here. It has to be over 32 degrees and the sun is incredibly intense. Looking forward to exploring more of Mendoza City later on and tonight! Oyo and Ole!
We flew from Montevideo to Buenos Aires, and then on to Mendoza finally arriving in the late afternoon to our very bohemian hostel. It has a gorgeous garden with a mini-pool and hammocks here and there. There is a huge, friendly and playful German Shepherd named Austin who is great. We met several Canadians and eventually went out to dinner as a group of 14 or so nearby - great food, tons of wine. Sleeping quarters are a bit tight - seven of us in a room for six (the twins cuddle), but hey, it's not like we're not tough enough ;)
Today was truly fabulous. The Rough Guide suggested taking local busses to the winery areas, but once Punky and I went to the bus station last night and figured out how it all worked, we established it would not be even close to fabulous. We're tough but not quite that rough! That adventure itself we named Tour de Sketchy - Mendoza Edition, featuring Punky and Bling. Basically, we would have arrived out in the middle of... Mendoza region, far too early, and had no hope of getting from winery to winery, miles apart. So we hired a mini-bus with a driver! Definitely the way to go.
We visited first Catena Zapata, a beautiful winery honouring the indigenous traditions of the land, inspired by the Mayan pyramids in Mexico. (the owner, 3rd of 4 generations who have run the company) actually went on a trip to Mexico and brought along the architect. It is made entirely of materials (stone, marble, rosewood) from different areas of Argentina. Their wines are actually my favourite of what is easily available in Canada. The integrity of the wine and wine process is very high and traditional but modern at the same time. Essentially, they use a very high-tech approach to make sure the product is very high quality in a traditional sense, with as little interference of the grapes as possible. They also were the first in the area to do microvarietals, I believe is the term. Meaning, they make blends of e.g. malbec, from malbec grapes planted at 1200 ft, 940 ft, and 840 ft above sea level. (unless it's metres!). The difference in altitude makes a significant difference in the grapes grown.
After, we went to Ruca Malen, a much more modern facility. Beautiful structure with a stunning lunch and tasting room, overlooking the fields with a view of the Andes which is amazing. Modern facily, moderm company, modern and experimental practices. We had a bite to eat and tried several of their wines, but this would certainly be one to return for their full lunch. Sitting on the terrasse with the view reminded me of being at an incredible elegant cottage... although much, much different of course!
Then, to Chandon for a tour... in Spanish. It was interesting however not nearly as memorable as the others so that's all I'll say on it!
Last, and the favourite for everyone else (mine just had to be Catena, simply because I was so looking forward to it), was Septima. Beautiful facility once again, the views were probably the best of the mountains, and a really interesting tour. We saw a little more of the lab, the bottling process, and the inside of the winery. Perhaps because it was smaller than the others we got more of a feel for the process and the winery. It is recommended for visiting at sunset but at any hour it is gorgeous.
Now, we are just relaxing and trying to work out some logistics for Wednesday. Seeing the mountains all day, so impressive, we decided we are going to try and get ourselves to them on Wednesday! Et c'est tout! It is REALLY hot here. It has to be over 32 degrees and the sun is incredibly intense. Looking forward to exploring more of Mendoza City later on and tonight! Oyo and Ole!
Saturday, March 10, 2007
What happens in Punta stays in Punta
Suffice it to say, we are enjoying ourselves greatly. Punta del Este rocks and we are even speculating we may someday find ourselves here for a Still Soave at Sixty reunion trip. Later nights than we are used to are the norm, some are unfortunately rather sunburned, but wine and laughs are plentiful and these are good times. Tomorrow, after going out tonight, we plan to head right back out for the bus back to Montevideo as we fly out to Mendoza later on. It´s just the more sensible plan given that our pickup is at 8 a.m. and we will probably crawl in once again at around 6 30.
To summarize : Fun Fun...Sun Sun.
Thursday, March 8, 2007
Freedom is a scooter in Colonia
On Tuesday morning the fabulous six hit the water for Uruguay. A quick one hour ferry ride later (on a very comfortably hydrofoil boat), we found ourselves in the charming town of Colonia del Sacramento.
There we walked around, had a lunch by the water, and then got to business of taking about a trillion photos. It is really gorgeous, old buildings, cobblestone streets, very peaceful, green, and somehow very Greece-like. Not that I´ve been, but it was my impression and strangely enough, those who know agreed. It was a beatiful sunny day and it was just so nice to walk around and explore. Of course, we stopped at a cute terrasse in the middle of a small street for some sangria... just to keep it real.
We then returned to the bus-ferry area to pruchase our bus tickets for Montevideo. There was a very sutffy and hot small internet cafe where some of the girls did the email thing, but three of us were restless and decided to go for a little walk. WELL! That was the best thing we could have done, for not 3 minutes into our walk, I spotted a little booth with some scooters in front of it. Instincts took over and I suggested we go check out the rental situation... and if you need to know how to drive manual to operate one (as some of the girls cannot).
Conversing with a Uruguayan is challenging. Our young scooter-rental-guy had as much trouble understanding us as we had him. It would be me, trying to explain or ask a question ... and then him looking at me, not understanding. And then he would talk a bunch...and I would look at him, not understanding. Then the others would try, and eventually he managed to get some kind of headache and needed a cigarette. Eventually we sorted it all out and finally went back to surprize our friends on three scooters!
I have since figured out that in Uruguay, they seem to drop the letters g, most S´s, all ¨ll¨s are a hard J but not like the argentine way ( more like a soft J). It´s seriously complicated. Uruguay as a word sounds something along the lines of üru- eye but with a very rolled R.
You might not think that scootering for the first time, with a passenger, in a new town, among seriously cobblestone-cobblerock streets, sometimes in the dark, is a good idea - but I am here to say, it is FREEDOM. Lots of mad giggling, lots of going up and down the same streets, but almost more fun than one should probably have. Highly, highly recommended. Definitely, definitely wear helmets.
We had spotted an incredible little restaurant after lunch, with a lovely garden, an outdoor grill, overlooking the water. Something out of a movie - small, stunning, but not perfect or pretentious. On one of our scoots by, Punky and I stopped to inquire as to what time they were open for dinner and such, and with much difficultly, managed to make a reservation for later. Communicating was very difficult in Colonia.
When we arrived back for dinner, it was already dark out. The garden area was lit with lanterns and candles on the tables. Along the whitewashed wall on the other side of the restaurant, overlooking the water, there were candles as well. We had a view of the harbour area and a sky full of stars on top of us. We had the most amazing dinner you can imagine, I think it was the best and most memorable I´ve had ever. (I never thought the infamous feast-spontaneous dinner party at Joe Beef would be surpassed, but....) Inclusive of a great local wine, Don Pascual. The most amazing dessert, some sort of indescribable thing that, as we always do, was shared by the six (now seven) of us. And impossibly delicious. And was perhaps 25-30$.
Sadly, the next morning when we woke up extra early to go scooting, our scooter did not start. Our scooter guy was a bit alarmed to see Punky and I walking towards him, luggage in tow, helmets in hand... without the scooter. In the end, he had not showed me a special pedal that is sometimes needed to start it and it was not broken but we were very sad about not having seen the town on wheels once more.
Yesterday, we spent the day walking around Montevideo. It is a much larger city although not terribly exciting or expecially interesting, particularly coming from Buenos Aires which is really so exceptional in architecture. Bollywood arrived in from London and met up with us so at last we were all present the seven of us. Lots of laughs at lunch with Almira bumbling up speculation of the mission impossible style ops and whatnot. We went to an area quite a ways out of town for dinner, 20 minutes by taxi, I feared it the west island of montevideo actually, to a highly recommended restaurant called Cafe Mysterio. We got a superb VIP section and had a great view of the place which was really quite cool. La Vida Chivas I believe was their tagline, which I think is essentially saying Pass the Courvosier in Uruguayan. Nice meal and stupendous ceviche, and great desserts although I think the malbec mousse at Asia de Cuba remains the one to be beat.
Today we have arrived in Punta del Este and are reasonably well-behaved.... so far. We walked around getting a feel for the place and you can definitely see that this is certainly the playground for superstars. No problems with the paparazzi just yet... It is a bit calmer of course now since the peak season has really died down but really, with the seven of us, peak might have really just been a touch too insane.
Quick shoutout to Erika & Brandon, now traveling in South Africa, on their engagement - in front of Victoria Falls - congratulations!!!
Bueno! That´s all for now, hope to hear of your news and I promise to enjoy the sun on behalf of all of you who have been requesting it - apprently it´s terribly cold right now. Ole!
Monday, March 5, 2007
Tour de Sketchy and Other Fabulous Adventures
A million and one adventures today. I met up with the girls on Florida and Cordoba at an outdoor terrasse where they had taken over a corner...after a waiter kicked off existing clients to make room. After scoping out a particularly hot cop for much of their time there, when we left and finally were going to get a pic with him, he was nowhere to be found. And by ¨to be found¨ make no mistake, we looked.
Eventually we made our way to a fantastic, elegant and ornate coffee house on avenida del Mayo. There, Punky (delivered by our agents on the ground, aka my parents) (her luggage finally arrived) joined us and we went on to Plaza de Mayo. Stunning architecture all around. I managed to fill a 1G memory card already! I will definitely need more than the other I have with me to get through this trip. So many of the buildings are just so grand and there are so many trees around. You can so clearly see how wealthy a city this once was, you simply do not come across this quantity of opulent buildings just anywhere.
We definitely stir it up just about everywhere we go... I´m not sure who was more curious .... us in the many groups of cops we came across... or them in us! Our travels continuted towards Puerto Madero boardwalk area... but not before what we have come to know as ¨tour de sketchy¨- we had to walk around this dark, abandoned, truly sketchy park like area in the middle of all kinds of 3 lane boulevards... trying to get to the other side. It definitely was one of those areas you should not be wandering around. We finally got to the port area and walked along all kinds of gorgeous restaurants, although some of their names were a little uninspired (Happening - such a beautiful place, all white, very modern, simple - but what a ridiculous name). Punky and I went aboard the first ship in the Argentinean navy, and met a very interesting Spanish guy from Valencia who we eventually spoke in Italian with... and he told us all the Italian swearwords he knew LOL. Lots of ¨I love you¨s called out at us today, quite amusing. Then again, Punky was ready to marry a few of our waiters yesterday. Within an hour or so of her arrival, we were brainstorming on when we would move here and what, precisely, we would do with ourselves once here. (we´re thinking 2008)
We walked all the way along the water to the very end, Punky and I naming it Tour de Sketchy...del Rio. At one point the others were ahead, and she goes to me, Are they mad at us? I mean, they must be, they´re making us walk all the way around! I laughed almost as hard as at breakfast, when she suggested we go looking for Gotan Project.
The walk was more than worth it. We walked the long way to arrive at Asia de Cuba. We sat on large outdoor couches on the waterfront terrasse and had the most fantastic meal. After tonight, I suspect that lamb from anywhere but Patagonia will simply not do. We all had the most delicious meals, and then shared mindblowing dessert of pear and chocolate torte but mainly - a malbec & berry mousse that was to die for. Including some great Chandon wine, it was the steal of the century as it cost approximately 32$ CAD for my share.
Time to sign off. Tomorrow, far too early, we head to Buquebus and take the ferry to Colonia del Sacremento, Montevideo, and finally, the weekend in Punta del Este before taking flight for Mendoza. Our last night in Buenos Aires for a few days, but definitely the way to leave. A fantastic day, an incredible meal, brilliant wine, great adventures, and too many laughs if indeed such a thing were possible. !OYO and OLE!
Eventually we made our way to a fantastic, elegant and ornate coffee house on avenida del Mayo. There, Punky (delivered by our agents on the ground, aka my parents) (her luggage finally arrived) joined us and we went on to Plaza de Mayo. Stunning architecture all around. I managed to fill a 1G memory card already! I will definitely need more than the other I have with me to get through this trip. So many of the buildings are just so grand and there are so many trees around. You can so clearly see how wealthy a city this once was, you simply do not come across this quantity of opulent buildings just anywhere.
We definitely stir it up just about everywhere we go... I´m not sure who was more curious .... us in the many groups of cops we came across... or them in us! Our travels continuted towards Puerto Madero boardwalk area... but not before what we have come to know as ¨tour de sketchy¨- we had to walk around this dark, abandoned, truly sketchy park like area in the middle of all kinds of 3 lane boulevards... trying to get to the other side. It definitely was one of those areas you should not be wandering around. We finally got to the port area and walked along all kinds of gorgeous restaurants, although some of their names were a little uninspired (Happening - such a beautiful place, all white, very modern, simple - but what a ridiculous name). Punky and I went aboard the first ship in the Argentinean navy, and met a very interesting Spanish guy from Valencia who we eventually spoke in Italian with... and he told us all the Italian swearwords he knew LOL. Lots of ¨I love you¨s called out at us today, quite amusing. Then again, Punky was ready to marry a few of our waiters yesterday. Within an hour or so of her arrival, we were brainstorming on when we would move here and what, precisely, we would do with ourselves once here. (we´re thinking 2008)
We walked all the way along the water to the very end, Punky and I naming it Tour de Sketchy...del Rio. At one point the others were ahead, and she goes to me, Are they mad at us? I mean, they must be, they´re making us walk all the way around! I laughed almost as hard as at breakfast, when she suggested we go looking for Gotan Project.
The walk was more than worth it. We walked the long way to arrive at Asia de Cuba. We sat on large outdoor couches on the waterfront terrasse and had the most fantastic meal. After tonight, I suspect that lamb from anywhere but Patagonia will simply not do. We all had the most delicious meals, and then shared mindblowing dessert of pear and chocolate torte but mainly - a malbec & berry mousse that was to die for. Including some great Chandon wine, it was the steal of the century as it cost approximately 32$ CAD for my share.
Time to sign off. Tomorrow, far too early, we head to Buquebus and take the ferry to Colonia del Sacremento, Montevideo, and finally, the weekend in Punta del Este before taking flight for Mendoza. Our last night in Buenos Aires for a few days, but definitely the way to leave. A fantastic day, an incredible meal, brilliant wine, great adventures, and too many laughs if indeed such a thing were possible. !OYO and OLE!
Winery visits- Mendoza
Having delevoped an addiction to malbec wine to such a level where even a malbec infused chocolate mousse will satisfy the craving ( my new favorite dessert as of tonight) ... I thought it was time that I post our planned winery visits in Mendoza, March 12- 14.
Monday
Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo
Catena Zapata
http://www.catenazapata.com/
Ruca Malan (visit and lunch)
http://www.bodegarucamalen.com
Septima
www.bodegaseptima.com.ar
Tuesday
Bodega Norton (visit and lunch)
Achaval Ferrer
Bodega Luigi Bosca
www.luigibosca.com.ar
Wednesday
Tunuyán Valle de Uco. Mendoza
Bodega Lurton
http://www.jflurton.com/
Salentein
Buenos Aires madness!
Love this city - the tango-themed art on small street corners, the range of different food to choose from at restos (lots of beef), and of course, the Argentine wine that is unbelievably cheap for us chicas (as we have been referred to so far). Although I still have not received my luggage that has been in delay mode since yesterday morning, I´m learning to cope with the reality; that it really doesn´t matter what I wear on this day or next because after all we are in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Yesterday, we explored the cobbled streets in the San Telmo district, passing by the artisan shops and stands full of art and jewelry, visiting the well known Mercado de San Telmo, and eventually made our way to a restaurant for dinner after groovin´ to the beats of a crowd playing the tam tams. Montrealers, this was an experience beyond the vibe felt @ Sunday Tam Tam´s on the foothills of Mount Royal. The 10 minute prepping of the drums (tam tams being warmed up around a small street fire sparked by wooden cases), and being a part of the crowd drumming down the streets made me realize we are in a city full of people that love excitement, are constantly having fun, and love to party. The chicas are definitely adapting well so far.
Just another manic Monday...
...but Sunday was brilliant! Danger´s post below brought back all the great memories, what an awesome day :)
Today there is the sort of cool breaze in the air that you would expect to feel on the edge of the water - not right in the middle of Palermo. After sleeping in a bit, trying to sort out Punky´s luggage issues (still not arrived), we had a leisurely breakfast at our corner coffee shop (the rest of the crew is downtown, we´re in Palermo). We were there yesterday morning... and last night, on our brief walk back from the Tango festival nearby at Plaza Italia. We stopped in for the long-promised sugar-dose Punky requires on a daily basis!
We had spent the afternoon in San Telmo, as described in fantastic detail by Miss Danger below. Punky and I were there a few hours earlier while the crew checked in and settled in upon arrival into town. Of course I took a million photos - in the streets, of the stunning architecture, and interesting graffiti of all sorts. My most favourite photo is of three young boys playing football just past the artisan booths of a sidestreet, with a mural of Che Guevera in the background. When I sort out how to get photos on here, it´ll be one of the first posted - along with a few of the tamtams and spontaneous salsa parade along av. Defensa.
Miss Danger was a bit conservative on the vino descriptions... we had first a malbec, then a cab sauv at our first stop... and then a malbec based blend at dinner (Norton, who we will visit next week). Of course, understandable to have overlooked the broad categories as her and Punky were picking up each specific flavour or aroma they picked up ... vanille, red berries, chocolate, wood, and many more I can´t recall.
Our motorcade cabride from San Telmo through to Palermo was great bc we had a fantastic introduction to the city and how varying the architecture can be. You can easily tell when the neighbourhood changes bc suddenly the pervasive architecture changes. There is always a mix of types of building, it´s always quite random, but when the norm changes from one style to the next you know it´s a new area. We also got a quick view of some of the huge and amazing parks found in the Recoleta area.
It was amazing to finally meet up with everyone! Fun times and small incidents already, you know that was just day one of many more adventures to come! It was really funny to see when it was realized, usually on the second or third take, that there are in fact six of us! We had a few fans although all were, from what we could understand, harmless and friendly. Not sure what the rest of the day has in store, but tomorrow we take it on the water and head over to Colonia in Uruguay. Apparently, there are all sorts of preparations for our arrival already taking place!!! Ole!
Today there is the sort of cool breaze in the air that you would expect to feel on the edge of the water - not right in the middle of Palermo. After sleeping in a bit, trying to sort out Punky´s luggage issues (still not arrived), we had a leisurely breakfast at our corner coffee shop (the rest of the crew is downtown, we´re in Palermo). We were there yesterday morning... and last night, on our brief walk back from the Tango festival nearby at Plaza Italia. We stopped in for the long-promised sugar-dose Punky requires on a daily basis!
We had spent the afternoon in San Telmo, as described in fantastic detail by Miss Danger below. Punky and I were there a few hours earlier while the crew checked in and settled in upon arrival into town. Of course I took a million photos - in the streets, of the stunning architecture, and interesting graffiti of all sorts. My most favourite photo is of three young boys playing football just past the artisan booths of a sidestreet, with a mural of Che Guevera in the background. When I sort out how to get photos on here, it´ll be one of the first posted - along with a few of the tamtams and spontaneous salsa parade along av. Defensa.
Miss Danger was a bit conservative on the vino descriptions... we had first a malbec, then a cab sauv at our first stop... and then a malbec based blend at dinner (Norton, who we will visit next week). Of course, understandable to have overlooked the broad categories as her and Punky were picking up each specific flavour or aroma they picked up ... vanille, red berries, chocolate, wood, and many more I can´t recall.
Our motorcade cabride from San Telmo through to Palermo was great bc we had a fantastic introduction to the city and how varying the architecture can be. You can easily tell when the neighbourhood changes bc suddenly the pervasive architecture changes. There is always a mix of types of building, it´s always quite random, but when the norm changes from one style to the next you know it´s a new area. We also got a quick view of some of the huge and amazing parks found in the Recoleta area.
It was amazing to finally meet up with everyone! Fun times and small incidents already, you know that was just day one of many more adventures to come! It was really funny to see when it was realized, usually on the second or third take, that there are in fact six of us! We had a few fans although all were, from what we could understand, harmless and friendly. Not sure what the rest of the day has in store, but tomorrow we take it on the water and head over to Colonia in Uruguay. Apparently, there are all sorts of preparations for our arrival already taking place!!! Ole!
Less than 24 hours in Buenos Aires, and I've already danced a tango. And salsa'd in the cobblestone streets of San Telmo. This city seems to be just my style. Any city that treats music and dance as akin to life will easily catch my heart.
As Miss Bling wrote, Trouble has definetely arrived. 6 of the Magnificent 7 met up on the streets of San Telmo (directions to our meeting place instructed us to look for the "hot cops on the corner") and the fantastic Sunday antiques market that took over the square. Right next to it, in a white-washed parking garage, was the design feria, with clothes and handbags that could only be described as uber-cool (a word I hate with a passion, but it fits in this case). Resisting temptation to load down our luggage on our first day of the trip, we pulled up a table at a sidewalk bar and cracked open our first bottle of Malbec while actually in Argentina. People-watching here is fascinating- a really interesting mix of the young, old, trendy, laid-back, tourists and locals.
Wandering around, we came across people drumming, clapping and dancing the salsa in the square. They paused to light a fire, thus warming up the skins of their drums in anticipation of the explosion of life to come, and then the night took on an air of spontaneity that one can only find in a Latin country. As we joined the parade of frenzied musicians and dancers through the streets of San Telmo, I wondered why I lived in England? I could easily do this on a regular basis- dance under the stars to the beat of the drums next to me.
Dinner involved more Malbec, and our first taste of Argentinian beef. God must do something special to the cows in this country, because I have never tasted beef quite so succulent or tender. A bottle of wine too, and all it cost was 6 quid!
All the tango lessons paid off as I joined the milonga with an Argentine partner at the Buenos Aires Tango Festival. I couldn't believe I was doing a tango in the city where it was invented. The older peole were wonderful to watch, and the amount of young people sliding across the floor showed that this most passionate of dances will never be a dying art.
As Miss Bling wrote, Trouble has definetely arrived. 6 of the Magnificent 7 met up on the streets of San Telmo (directions to our meeting place instructed us to look for the "hot cops on the corner") and the fantastic Sunday antiques market that took over the square. Right next to it, in a white-washed parking garage, was the design feria, with clothes and handbags that could only be described as uber-cool (a word I hate with a passion, but it fits in this case). Resisting temptation to load down our luggage on our first day of the trip, we pulled up a table at a sidewalk bar and cracked open our first bottle of Malbec while actually in Argentina. People-watching here is fascinating- a really interesting mix of the young, old, trendy, laid-back, tourists and locals.
Wandering around, we came across people drumming, clapping and dancing the salsa in the square. They paused to light a fire, thus warming up the skins of their drums in anticipation of the explosion of life to come, and then the night took on an air of spontaneity that one can only find in a Latin country. As we joined the parade of frenzied musicians and dancers through the streets of San Telmo, I wondered why I lived in England? I could easily do this on a regular basis- dance under the stars to the beat of the drums next to me.
Dinner involved more Malbec, and our first taste of Argentinian beef. God must do something special to the cows in this country, because I have never tasted beef quite so succulent or tender. A bottle of wine too, and all it cost was 6 quid!
All the tango lessons paid off as I joined the milonga with an Argentine partner at the Buenos Aires Tango Festival. I couldn't believe I was doing a tango in the city where it was invented. The older peole were wonderful to watch, and the amount of young people sliding across the floor showed that this most passionate of dances will never be a dying art.
Sunday, March 4, 2007
The eagles have landed... aka Trouble has arrived.
Punky arrived finally this morning, without luggage, and the terrible twins and friends have also arrived. We will meet up with them later once Punky´s luggage gets here. (should be soon)
We just went for medialunas and cappucino at the corner cafe we always hang out at. We hope to hit the San Telmo Sunday market and then the last night of the tango festival.
Yesterday it was quite cool and mostly overcast. Today it is cool (probably 17 C or so) with a breeze and sun. Palermo Soho was mad busy with ppl walking around and then we went to a street called Cordoba which has lots of outlets and stores - pretty great shopping, although I´ll save that moreso for the end of the trip when we aren´t traveling about on ferries and small planes all over the place. Don´t need any more to carry around!
Shoutout to the Facebook peeps! No, I´m still not playing along but am considering it. It sounds like crack though...not sure I need an addictive habit! Ok that´s it for now!!!
Punky should be posting our winery visit schedule soon... Still ambitious but not as much as originally intended. We are now looking into cycling from one winery to another... not sure wine and bikes go together but there is only one way to find out for sure! Hoping to do about three per day, and save an afternoon to visit this amazing canyon that we don´t actually know the name of but is supposed to be outstanding!!!
Well that´s about it! Hopefully the luggage will have arrived and we can head out. Chau chau!
The Perfect Mixtape
Free advertising in exchange for a free copy of the final project!!!
Hello Family and Friends, I am in need of everyone and anyones help for an artistic project I am trying to get off the ground. I am in search of audio mixtapes (good condition perferably). It does not have to be of any particular genre it just needs to be a mixtape that you might have put together back in the day. If you have one or more tapes you would like to share or can merely pass this email on it would be greatly appreciated. They can either email me at this address or at mixtapecollector8@gmail.com Thank you in advance and hope to hear from alot of you soon. Cheers, Parvez
Hello Family and Friends, I am in need of everyone and anyones help for an artistic project I am trying to get off the ground. I am in search of audio mixtapes (good condition perferably). It does not have to be of any particular genre it just needs to be a mixtape that you might have put together back in the day. If you have one or more tapes you would like to share or can merely pass this email on it would be greatly appreciated. They can either email me at this address or at mixtapecollector8@gmail.com Thank you in advance and hope to hear from alot of you soon. Cheers, Parvez
Saturday, March 3, 2007
SOHO, oyo and ole!
An afternoon in SOHO is about as good as it gets. Great boutiques of all sorts, from trendy clothing stores and design shops, to small more boho-chic spots, and market stalls with artisanal jewelry and the like. It´s a little bit like Notting Hill although less polished, but the idea of low structures, some quite colourful, cool cafes and terrasses, trendy restos or lounges, and plenty of peoplewatching to be done. Definitely designed for the excessively fabulous.
At night we went to Belgrano to Monica´s for dinner and it was a fun, if late, night. She has an amazing huge terrasse that gets sun from every angle but South, which here is the one which the sun doesn´t come from. Another area that I really want to explore more, we will do an afternoon and maybe dinner there once the full crew is in town (and probably after we return from Mendoza et al.) It´s a little less developped in terms of being a chichi hotspot although there is fantastic shopping to be done there - but less highend and trendy than Soho. A lot more residential and local than Soho and Palermo Viejo in general which has a strong expat population as well as being a must-see for tourists moreso than Belgrano. But one of the most famous restaurants is there, so hopefully we manage to get in to check out the hype! (sucre)
Punky´s flight was in fact delayed significantly out of Montreal and she arrived too late to make her connection at JFK and is currently en route, leaving to Miami shortly, then BA tonight. She´ll arrive here quite early tomorrow morning although who knows about her luggage! For those of you who don´t know my maxim - never travel on a Friday if you plan on having any sort of a weekend in your destination. a) you´re always a bit tired your first night and b) if your flight gets mucked up, you´ve missed the weekend! Always fly on a Thursday (or earlier).
The rest of the rock stars also arrive tomorrow and I´m hoping we will get to check out San Telmo. They are known for their Sunday antique market, and there are some interesting things to check out - notably a small museum dedicated to Argentine fashion since 1850! (museo del traje). And then finish off the Sunday with the closing night of the annual Tango festival! Bueno... that´s it, chau chau.
At night we went to Belgrano to Monica´s for dinner and it was a fun, if late, night. She has an amazing huge terrasse that gets sun from every angle but South, which here is the one which the sun doesn´t come from. Another area that I really want to explore more, we will do an afternoon and maybe dinner there once the full crew is in town (and probably after we return from Mendoza et al.) It´s a little less developped in terms of being a chichi hotspot although there is fantastic shopping to be done there - but less highend and trendy than Soho. A lot more residential and local than Soho and Palermo Viejo in general which has a strong expat population as well as being a must-see for tourists moreso than Belgrano. But one of the most famous restaurants is there, so hopefully we manage to get in to check out the hype! (sucre)
Punky´s flight was in fact delayed significantly out of Montreal and she arrived too late to make her connection at JFK and is currently en route, leaving to Miami shortly, then BA tonight. She´ll arrive here quite early tomorrow morning although who knows about her luggage! For those of you who don´t know my maxim - never travel on a Friday if you plan on having any sort of a weekend in your destination. a) you´re always a bit tired your first night and b) if your flight gets mucked up, you´ve missed the weekend! Always fly on a Thursday (or earlier).
The rest of the rock stars also arrive tomorrow and I´m hoping we will get to check out San Telmo. They are known for their Sunday antique market, and there are some interesting things to check out - notably a small museum dedicated to Argentine fashion since 1850! (museo del traje). And then finish off the Sunday with the closing night of the annual Tango festival! Bueno... that´s it, chau chau.
Friday, March 2, 2007
Clear skies - in Buenos Aires, at least
Last night I went for a proper asado (asada?) dinner with my dad. It was great! Had amazing steak and lamb. Was also great to have one of my fave wines for a fraction of the Canadian cost. Late dinner of course, here.
Today has been a relaxed day, figuring out the millions of functions on my camera. Talked with Punky ealier who is hopefully soon to be en route although a lot of flights have been cancelled. Hers to JFK is still on - for now. Yikes. About to head off to Palermo SOHO area with my mom to shop a bit and grab a coffee. Lots of stopping for coffee here... I was hoping to get one ¨to go¨for the walk since I havent had any yet (the espresso is amazing although I´m partial to cafe con leche) and my mom looked at me like I was crazy. Tonight we are going to dinner at a family friend here.. although arent sure what to expect. She´s an IP lawyer and generally eats out so we arent sure she can actually cook.... ´
The weather today is PERFECT!!!!!!!!! It is cool, 20ish, not humid, and totally sunny. WOOHOO! Have lots planned for tomorrow and Sunday, and starting to have the city, metro (subte) figured out. Chau chau
Thursday, March 1, 2007
Rain Day
Rainy day!
Rain here means business although it cleared up by mid-afternoon. By business, I mean I thought I might drown if I stepped out (and so, in keeping with my dislike of rain, I did not). To quantify this a little further, by business, I mean 94% humidity. It´s quite cool, being about 20 celcius.
It´s tough to point out all that I´ve seen but I will say that only now am I starting to get a real appreciation for how big this city is. Lots of interesting areas to be discovered. Yesterday I was in the port area, which has some really nice restaurants and cafes along the water, with high-end newly constructed condos on top. Yachts and such on the water nearby. Also nearby, one of many kind of sketchy areas where you definitely want to keep your eyes open and your valuables close. Theft is a major issue here and of course I would like to avoid experiencing it!
The tango festival is on and I might stop in before the whole crew arrives on Sunday and we catch the last night of it. Gotta jet -- Ole!
Rain here means business although it cleared up by mid-afternoon. By business, I mean I thought I might drown if I stepped out (and so, in keeping with my dislike of rain, I did not). To quantify this a little further, by business, I mean 94% humidity. It´s quite cool, being about 20 celcius.
It´s tough to point out all that I´ve seen but I will say that only now am I starting to get a real appreciation for how big this city is. Lots of interesting areas to be discovered. Yesterday I was in the port area, which has some really nice restaurants and cafes along the water, with high-end newly constructed condos on top. Yachts and such on the water nearby. Also nearby, one of many kind of sketchy areas where you definitely want to keep your eyes open and your valuables close. Theft is a major issue here and of course I would like to avoid experiencing it!
The tango festival is on and I might stop in before the whole crew arrives on Sunday and we catch the last night of it. Gotta jet -- Ole!
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
In Palermo
Woo hoo I made it and it rocks! >Flight -- easy. However, those of you traveling together - I would opt to risk sitting separately to have a window seat if you are on a large plane. It makes it much easier to sleep (resting your head on the window). And whatever you do, don´t get stuck in any way shape or form in the middle section!EW! (4 ppl across). I made sure not to sleep too much the night before and so I managed to basically pass out from about 12ish until about 9 a.m. local an hour before landing (slept thru breakfast). Getting out of the airport takes a while -- customs LONG and slow. For those of you traveling on a weekend, factor in some delay mainly at your initial airport (Mtl, Van) since you are flying thru the US. And a bit more in the US but that one was much quicker. I met a guy on the flight from Mtl, recently relocated from Venice Beach to Chelsea in NY, who had been up at Trem-blah-n-T skiing. Of Cuban origin and likes to travel so we had fun chatting about places we´d been or would like to go. He works for yahoo in marketing so I felt a little guilty when we traded emails but I was sure to point out that several of my friends use yahoo as their primary email hahaha. On the flight to BA I met a girl (21) who is moving here for 4 months (semester abroad) from Chicago, studying studio arts & design.
I was still pretty tired when I got in so napped a bit and then went out around here (Palermo) and Recoleta. We went to the fine arts museum for a talk about Klimt and then to the Design Centre (Argentine designs and generally just high end design (home) stores. Saw the botanical gardens and zoo from far and the entrance to Evita´s tomb but it was closed. The parks are huge and really nice, lots in this area. Crazy thing about the parks - there are TONS of stray cats in them they live there, just kinda hanging out and suntanning. I saw at least 20! Some are quite cute, some look like strays.
Did other walking around - Recoleta is really nice, reminds me a bit of the upper east side in NY - nice tall buildings, trees, narrow streets, wide sidewalks - although a little bit edgier not quite as pristine but really nice. People remind me of Montreal - everyone has a style, just not always the same style! Some ppl look like they could be anywhere - young casual, or funky, others are chic in that ubersimple the French can do (but bronze!), and others look like they are literally chanelling Donatella Versace (long blonde hair, orangey skin, tight clothes, lotsa makeup)... there is no one ¨look¨ per se. Not sure what we will do tomorrow. It is a bit cool today (20s) as it was raining in the morning and remained a bit overcast until about 5ish. It is totally warm though. Kinda tired. anyhow time´s up gotta go but will be in touch tomorrow probably.
Day 2
Not much time but it´s cool again (20ish) and a bit overcast. Just went to the zoo and saw the baby white tigers - sooooo cute! Now off to lunch, loving it! OLE!
I was still pretty tired when I got in so napped a bit and then went out around here (Palermo) and Recoleta. We went to the fine arts museum for a talk about Klimt and then to the Design Centre (Argentine designs and generally just high end design (home) stores. Saw the botanical gardens and zoo from far and the entrance to Evita´s tomb but it was closed. The parks are huge and really nice, lots in this area. Crazy thing about the parks - there are TONS of stray cats in them they live there, just kinda hanging out and suntanning. I saw at least 20! Some are quite cute, some look like strays.
Did other walking around - Recoleta is really nice, reminds me a bit of the upper east side in NY - nice tall buildings, trees, narrow streets, wide sidewalks - although a little bit edgier not quite as pristine but really nice. People remind me of Montreal - everyone has a style, just not always the same style! Some ppl look like they could be anywhere - young casual, or funky, others are chic in that ubersimple the French can do (but bronze!), and others look like they are literally chanelling Donatella Versace (long blonde hair, orangey skin, tight clothes, lotsa makeup)... there is no one ¨look¨ per se. Not sure what we will do tomorrow. It is a bit cool today (20s) as it was raining in the morning and remained a bit overcast until about 5ish. It is totally warm though. Kinda tired. anyhow time´s up gotta go but will be in touch tomorrow probably.
Day 2
Not much time but it´s cool again (20ish) and a bit overcast. Just went to the zoo and saw the baby white tigers - sooooo cute! Now off to lunch, loving it! OLE!
Monday, February 12, 2007
If I had to turn 30, I was going to do it in style. Allow destination weddings, this is the first of destination birthdays. Two years in the making, and we're finally about to kick off the madness.
d30a was born on a table in Montreal, with sassy maracas, too much red wine and in the company of amazing friends. I was dancing on a table, shaking my maracas (not like that boys, get your minds out of the gutter) with one of my closest friends- Alim -and we thought, "We have to outdo this party!" The obvious location for our fiasco was South America, and without much ado chose Buenos Aires.
Nothing is ever fun without the involvement of like-minded and fellow crazy-people, and soon my mad-sister-with-the-big-voice and two really good mates, Puja & Hafeez, were planning this along with us. We booked an entire hotel, looked into chartering a plane, alerted the media, put together the invites and the website and then we were off! Late additions to the birthday people included Mel, who taught me to drive in Kuala Lumpur and offered to sponsor any family I might find in India.
Feez, I'm sorry that you won't make it in the end. I bet this would have been your most memorable game of blackjack ever.
Thanks to Dan P for his fab invite (5 Legendary Party People, 1 Defenceless City- priceless!); Miss Bling for this excessively fabulous blog; Alim for finding us Jimena, Facundo & Daniel, Jenney S for the tango lessons; Pedro, Esther & Monica for the Spanish lessons; Mum & Dad for your Air Miles; Dario for all the local insights; Agent Bling's operatives on the ground for your investigating and reporting; and the invention of Skype that enabled round-the-world conference calls. And the trip wouldn't have happened without the superior-planning skills of the Magnificent 7.
Buenos Aires, brace yourself! Tomorrow morning, Miss Danger, Miss Chaos, Miss Bollywood, Miss Hollywood, Miss Punky and Miss Bling descend on Pistarini airport and we don't make any promises from there on.
Lock up your sons
Hide your brothers
Keep an eye on your boyfriends
We're coming to town.....
d30a was born on a table in Montreal, with sassy maracas, too much red wine and in the company of amazing friends. I was dancing on a table, shaking my maracas (not like that boys, get your minds out of the gutter) with one of my closest friends- Alim -and we thought, "We have to outdo this party!" The obvious location for our fiasco was South America, and without much ado chose Buenos Aires.
Nothing is ever fun without the involvement of like-minded and fellow crazy-people, and soon my mad-sister-with-the-big-voice and two really good mates, Puja & Hafeez, were planning this along with us. We booked an entire hotel, looked into chartering a plane, alerted the media, put together the invites and the website and then we were off! Late additions to the birthday people included Mel, who taught me to drive in Kuala Lumpur and offered to sponsor any family I might find in India.
Feez, I'm sorry that you won't make it in the end. I bet this would have been your most memorable game of blackjack ever.
Thanks to Dan P for his fab invite (5 Legendary Party People, 1 Defenceless City- priceless!); Miss Bling for this excessively fabulous blog; Alim for finding us Jimena, Facundo & Daniel, Jenney S for the tango lessons; Pedro, Esther & Monica for the Spanish lessons; Mum & Dad for your Air Miles; Dario for all the local insights; Agent Bling's operatives on the ground for your investigating and reporting; and the invention of Skype that enabled round-the-world conference calls. And the trip wouldn't have happened without the superior-planning skills of the Magnificent 7.
Buenos Aires, brace yourself! Tomorrow morning, Miss Danger, Miss Chaos, Miss Bollywood, Miss Hollywood, Miss Punky and Miss Bling descend on Pistarini airport and we don't make any promises from there on.
Lock up your sons
Hide your brothers
Keep an eye on your boyfriends
We're coming to town.....
Thursday, February 8, 2007
36 Hours : Buenos Aires (New York Times, Feb. 4 2007)
"IT is better to look good than to feel good,” the Argentine actor Fernando Lamas once remarked. He could have been talking about Buenos Aires after its 2002 peso crisis. The financial meltdown emasculated the Argentine economy, but it also made Buenos Aires, the expensive cosmopolitan capital, an attractive and suddenly affordable destination. Now largely recovered from “La Crisis,” the city is being energized by an influx of tourists, expatriates and returning Argentine émigrés, and its glamorous night life and conspicuous consumption have reached a fever pitch. While inflation is now reappearing, Buenos Aires, at least for the moment, not only looks good but feels that way too.
Friday
2 p.m. 1) UNDERGROUND CITY
For a fascinating peek into Buenos Aires's history, start at El Zanjón de Granados (Defensa 755; 54-11-4361-3002), a 175-year-old mansion that leads to a series of underground tunnels that go back to the city's early settlements. (The city was founded in 1536.) Now a museum, El Zanjón offers intriguing one-hour tours (20 pesos, or about $6.30 at 3.16 pesos to the dollar) through a cross section of the city's archaeological layers.
4 p.m. 2) ICE CREAM AND ART
Explore present-day Buenos Aires in the cobblestoned district of San Telmo. While best known for its weekend antiques market, the neighborhood now has plenty of cool shops and restaurants. The ice cream parlor Nonna Bianca (Estados Unidos 407; 54-11-4362-0604) balances rustic Patagonian décor with adventurous flavors like kumquats in whiskey (small cone: 3 pesos). San Telmo is also home to a growing gallery scene including the swank Wussman Gallery (Venezuela 574; 54-11-4343-4707; www.wussmann.com) and Appetite (Chacabuco 551; 54-9-11-6112-9975; www.appetite.com.ar), which specializes in punk-rock-style art.
9:30 p.m. 3) LITTLE ITALY, ARGENTINA
More than a third of Argentina's population is of Italian descent, and Guido's Bar (República de la India 2843; 54-11-4802-2391) fulfills all the Little Italy tropes, from “Volare” on the stereo to the New York City skyline on the ceiling. But the crowd is Argentine and the food is varied and tasty. There is no menu and after one question — “Red or white?” — the waiters bring a seemingly random assortment of plates, like a cold appetizer of spinach and red bell peppers in a paprika mayonnaise sauce, followed by Spanish tortillas, stuffed eggplants, penne in red sauce and pignoli nuts. How the waiter figures your bill (45 to 60 pesos a person) remains a mystery.
11:45 p.m. 4) PLAY IT AGAIN, CARLOS
The spirit of Carlos Gardel, the godfather of Argentine tango, lives on in the Almagro neighborhood, where Bar 12 de Octubre (Bulnes 331; 54-11-4862-0415; www.barderoberto.com.ar) offers weekly music shows. Started in the mid-90s when the famed tangoist Roberto Medina stopped in to play a few songs, the shows run Tuesday to Friday nights between 11 p.m. and 3 a.m. Arrive early to get a good spot, before the crowds of tattooed 20- and 30-somethings jam the tiny, grungy space.
Saturday
11 a.m. 5) CAFE CULTURE
With its prime location and literary clientele that included Jorge Luis Borges, Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825; 54-11-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.com.ar) is the most famous of the cafes from Buenos Aires's belle époque. But more magnificent is Las Violetas (Avenida Rivadavia 3899; 54-11-4958-7387; www.lasvioletas.com), a 123-year-old French-style cafe. After closing briefly in the late 1990s, Las Violetas's interior, including its gorgeous stained glass, has been restored. The white-jacketed waiters serve the classic breakfast of café con leche with three croissants (5.40 pesos), but the shocker of the menu is the María Cala tea service, an eye-popping pile of cakes, scones, finger sandwiches and pan dulce pastries (29 pesos for three people).
1 p.m. 6) DON'T CRY FOR HER
To most visitors, the Recoleta Cemetery in the upscale Recoleta district (intersection of Junín and Guido) is known as the place where Eva Perón's body is buried. But the graveyard is also the final home of several presidents, scientists and other influential Argentines. Urban Explorer (54-11-4813-0385; www.urbex.com.ar) offers a history-filled recorded tour through the Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernist-style mausoleums ($20 for 90 minutes). Highlights include the tomb of Luis Ángel Firpo, an Argentine heavyweight who once knocked Jack Dempsey out of the ring.
3 p.m. 7) THE LAND OF POLO
To marvel at Argentina's longtime obsession with horses, head to the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4101; 54-11-4778-2800; www.palermo.com.ar; entrance fee 5 pesos). Opened in 1876, the elegant racetrack has a French neo-Classical grandstand, the Confitería París restaurant and a basement casino. For up-close action, sit at the wooden tables that dot the flowery lawn. There are 10 race days a month.
7 p.m. 8) DRINKING AND NOT DRIVING
Malba, short for Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, is considered to have one of the finest Latin American art collections in the world (Alcorta 3415; 54-11-4808-6500; www.malba.org.ar; entrance fee 12 pesos). In addition to a permanent collection that includes Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar, Diego Rivera and Guillermo Kuitca, the cavernous museum has also had traveling shows by Lichtenstein, Stella and Warhol. Afterward, head next door to the Museo Renault (Alcorta 3399; 54-11-4802-9626; www.mrenault.com.ar) for one of the city's best martinis and one of the city's weirder new trends: car-branded bars. Audi, Ferrari, Maserati and Mini Cooper have opened up their own boîtes nearby.
10 p.m. 9) MEAT, MEAT AND MORE MEAT
In the shopping-friendly district of Palermo Soho, La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099; 54-11-4831-7002) is a French bistro that takes Argentina's amazing steaks in a new direction. The chef, Gastón Rivera, serves classic beef cuts like juicy ojo de bife (30.50 pesos), but serves it alongside an impressive array of untraditional side dishes including mashed pumpkin with raisins, beet purée and baked pearl onions in red wine. Arrive early to take advantage of the free champagne at the sidewalk waiting area, while you listen to tango-themed electronica music and watch the beautiful crowd of jet-setting locals and trendy visitors.
12 a.m. 10) HASTA LA MAÑANA
If you're looking to dance, head to the consistently trendy Niceto Club (Niceto Vega 5510; 54-11-4779-9396; www.nicetoclub.com), a multistory venue on an industrial strip lined with auto repair shops. Local bands like Los Alamos and the French Kid Loco play before midnight; afterward, D.J.'s play psychedelic trance and dance music. The crowd peaks around 3 a.m. If you prefer places that get going before 1 a.m., head to Mundo Bizarro (Serrano 1222; 54-11-4773-1967; www.mundobizarrobar.com), a night-life mainstay decorated with 50s pinup posters and a stripper pole. For other hot clubs, check out WhatsUpBuenosAires.com (bilingual) and BuenosAliens.com (Spanish).
Sunday
10 a.m 11) ROSES AND ROSAS
For a break from the careering colectivo buses and bumblebee-colored cabs, go to Parque Tres de Febrero (also known as the Bosques de Palermo) on the city's northern edge. The 965-acre park fills on weekends with runners, cyclists, sun worshipers and the odd club kid unwilling to let Saturday end. Stroll past the placid lake, the whiffle ball-shaped planetarium and the Rosedal garden, which has about 12,000 roses. Those club kids are heading to Arkos (Avenida Casares and Avenida Sarmiento; 54-11-4804-2512; www.clubarkos.com.ar) an after-hours party inside the park that starts Sundays at 7 a.m.
1 p.m. 12) LUNCH + DINNER = BRUNCH
Sunday brunch at Olsen (Gorriti 5870; 54-11-4776-7677; prix fix, with champagne, 27 to 39 pesos) has become a mainstay of expatriates, filmmakers and wealthy Argentines by offering two Buenos Aires rarities: brunch and ethnic food. The décor is pure Scandinavia, with curvy plywood furniture and 60 types of vodkas. Dishes include herring and smoked salmon with Argentine bondiola (pork tenderloin). Call ahead to get an outdoor table on the heated deck, or on the couches around the fireplace (avoid the frenetic tables near the kitchen). In a concession to Argentines' overheated night life, brunch goes on until 8 p.m.
The Basics
Many major American and Latin American airlines fly to Ezeiza International Airport near Buenos Aires from Kennedy Airport in New York. A recent Web search showed round-trip fares starting at around $900. The 20-mile taxi ride to the city's center runs about 60 pesos.
The Art Hotel (Azcuenaga 1268; 54-11-4821-4744; www.arthotel.com.ar), opened in 2004, was among the city's first boutique hotels. The 36 rooms are housed above an art gallery in exclusive Recoleta. Room rates, quoted in United States dollars, start at $65.
The Scandinavian-style Home Hotel (Honduras 5860; 54-11-4778-1008; www.homebuenosaires.com) has become a de rigueur stop for the Wallpaper* magazine set and the place where the rock groups U2 and Franz Ferdinand held concert after-parties. On summer Fridays, Tom Rixton, a co-owner and English record producer, spins what he calls “stupid party music for girls to dance to.” The 18 rooms start at $115.
**looks like we're taking over the right place!**
Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (Avenida Alvear 1661; 54-11-5171-1234; www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com), opened in July 2006, has 164 rooms split between the renovated 1934 Duhau family mansion and a recent wing. Rooms start at around $370.
Friday
2 p.m. 1) UNDERGROUND CITY
For a fascinating peek into Buenos Aires's history, start at El Zanjón de Granados (Defensa 755; 54-11-4361-3002), a 175-year-old mansion that leads to a series of underground tunnels that go back to the city's early settlements. (The city was founded in 1536.) Now a museum, El Zanjón offers intriguing one-hour tours (20 pesos, or about $6.30 at 3.16 pesos to the dollar) through a cross section of the city's archaeological layers.
4 p.m. 2) ICE CREAM AND ART
Explore present-day Buenos Aires in the cobblestoned district of San Telmo. While best known for its weekend antiques market, the neighborhood now has plenty of cool shops and restaurants. The ice cream parlor Nonna Bianca (Estados Unidos 407; 54-11-4362-0604) balances rustic Patagonian décor with adventurous flavors like kumquats in whiskey (small cone: 3 pesos). San Telmo is also home to a growing gallery scene including the swank Wussman Gallery (Venezuela 574; 54-11-4343-4707; www.wussmann.com) and Appetite (Chacabuco 551; 54-9-11-6112-9975; www.appetite.com.ar), which specializes in punk-rock-style art.
9:30 p.m. 3) LITTLE ITALY, ARGENTINA
More than a third of Argentina's population is of Italian descent, and Guido's Bar (República de la India 2843; 54-11-4802-2391) fulfills all the Little Italy tropes, from “Volare” on the stereo to the New York City skyline on the ceiling. But the crowd is Argentine and the food is varied and tasty. There is no menu and after one question — “Red or white?” — the waiters bring a seemingly random assortment of plates, like a cold appetizer of spinach and red bell peppers in a paprika mayonnaise sauce, followed by Spanish tortillas, stuffed eggplants, penne in red sauce and pignoli nuts. How the waiter figures your bill (45 to 60 pesos a person) remains a mystery.
11:45 p.m. 4) PLAY IT AGAIN, CARLOS
The spirit of Carlos Gardel, the godfather of Argentine tango, lives on in the Almagro neighborhood, where Bar 12 de Octubre (Bulnes 331; 54-11-4862-0415; www.barderoberto.com.ar) offers weekly music shows. Started in the mid-90s when the famed tangoist Roberto Medina stopped in to play a few songs, the shows run Tuesday to Friday nights between 11 p.m. and 3 a.m. Arrive early to get a good spot, before the crowds of tattooed 20- and 30-somethings jam the tiny, grungy space.
Saturday
11 a.m. 5) CAFE CULTURE
With its prime location and literary clientele that included Jorge Luis Borges, Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825; 54-11-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.com.ar) is the most famous of the cafes from Buenos Aires's belle époque. But more magnificent is Las Violetas (Avenida Rivadavia 3899; 54-11-4958-7387; www.lasvioletas.com), a 123-year-old French-style cafe. After closing briefly in the late 1990s, Las Violetas's interior, including its gorgeous stained glass, has been restored. The white-jacketed waiters serve the classic breakfast of café con leche with three croissants (5.40 pesos), but the shocker of the menu is the María Cala tea service, an eye-popping pile of cakes, scones, finger sandwiches and pan dulce pastries (29 pesos for three people).
1 p.m. 6) DON'T CRY FOR HER
To most visitors, the Recoleta Cemetery in the upscale Recoleta district (intersection of Junín and Guido) is known as the place where Eva Perón's body is buried. But the graveyard is also the final home of several presidents, scientists and other influential Argentines. Urban Explorer (54-11-4813-0385; www.urbex.com.ar) offers a history-filled recorded tour through the Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernist-style mausoleums ($20 for 90 minutes). Highlights include the tomb of Luis Ángel Firpo, an Argentine heavyweight who once knocked Jack Dempsey out of the ring.
3 p.m. 7) THE LAND OF POLO
To marvel at Argentina's longtime obsession with horses, head to the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4101; 54-11-4778-2800; www.palermo.com.ar; entrance fee 5 pesos). Opened in 1876, the elegant racetrack has a French neo-Classical grandstand, the Confitería París restaurant and a basement casino. For up-close action, sit at the wooden tables that dot the flowery lawn. There are 10 race days a month.
7 p.m. 8) DRINKING AND NOT DRIVING
Malba, short for Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, is considered to have one of the finest Latin American art collections in the world (Alcorta 3415; 54-11-4808-6500; www.malba.org.ar; entrance fee 12 pesos). In addition to a permanent collection that includes Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar, Diego Rivera and Guillermo Kuitca, the cavernous museum has also had traveling shows by Lichtenstein, Stella and Warhol. Afterward, head next door to the Museo Renault (Alcorta 3399; 54-11-4802-9626; www.mrenault.com.ar) for one of the city's best martinis and one of the city's weirder new trends: car-branded bars. Audi, Ferrari, Maserati and Mini Cooper have opened up their own boîtes nearby.
10 p.m. 9) MEAT, MEAT AND MORE MEAT
In the shopping-friendly district of Palermo Soho, La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099; 54-11-4831-7002) is a French bistro that takes Argentina's amazing steaks in a new direction. The chef, Gastón Rivera, serves classic beef cuts like juicy ojo de bife (30.50 pesos), but serves it alongside an impressive array of untraditional side dishes including mashed pumpkin with raisins, beet purée and baked pearl onions in red wine. Arrive early to take advantage of the free champagne at the sidewalk waiting area, while you listen to tango-themed electronica music and watch the beautiful crowd of jet-setting locals and trendy visitors.
12 a.m. 10) HASTA LA MAÑANA
If you're looking to dance, head to the consistently trendy Niceto Club (Niceto Vega 5510; 54-11-4779-9396; www.nicetoclub.com), a multistory venue on an industrial strip lined with auto repair shops. Local bands like Los Alamos and the French Kid Loco play before midnight; afterward, D.J.'s play psychedelic trance and dance music. The crowd peaks around 3 a.m. If you prefer places that get going before 1 a.m., head to Mundo Bizarro (Serrano 1222; 54-11-4773-1967; www.mundobizarrobar.com), a night-life mainstay decorated with 50s pinup posters and a stripper pole. For other hot clubs, check out WhatsUpBuenosAires.com (bilingual) and BuenosAliens.com (Spanish).
Sunday
10 a.m 11) ROSES AND ROSAS
For a break from the careering colectivo buses and bumblebee-colored cabs, go to Parque Tres de Febrero (also known as the Bosques de Palermo) on the city's northern edge. The 965-acre park fills on weekends with runners, cyclists, sun worshipers and the odd club kid unwilling to let Saturday end. Stroll past the placid lake, the whiffle ball-shaped planetarium and the Rosedal garden, which has about 12,000 roses. Those club kids are heading to Arkos (Avenida Casares and Avenida Sarmiento; 54-11-4804-2512; www.clubarkos.com.ar) an after-hours party inside the park that starts Sundays at 7 a.m.
1 p.m. 12) LUNCH + DINNER = BRUNCH
Sunday brunch at Olsen (Gorriti 5870; 54-11-4776-7677; prix fix, with champagne, 27 to 39 pesos) has become a mainstay of expatriates, filmmakers and wealthy Argentines by offering two Buenos Aires rarities: brunch and ethnic food. The décor is pure Scandinavia, with curvy plywood furniture and 60 types of vodkas. Dishes include herring and smoked salmon with Argentine bondiola (pork tenderloin). Call ahead to get an outdoor table on the heated deck, or on the couches around the fireplace (avoid the frenetic tables near the kitchen). In a concession to Argentines' overheated night life, brunch goes on until 8 p.m.
The Basics
Many major American and Latin American airlines fly to Ezeiza International Airport near Buenos Aires from Kennedy Airport in New York. A recent Web search showed round-trip fares starting at around $900. The 20-mile taxi ride to the city's center runs about 60 pesos.
The Art Hotel (Azcuenaga 1268; 54-11-4821-4744; www.arthotel.com.ar), opened in 2004, was among the city's first boutique hotels. The 36 rooms are housed above an art gallery in exclusive Recoleta. Room rates, quoted in United States dollars, start at $65.
The Scandinavian-style Home Hotel (Honduras 5860; 54-11-4778-1008; www.homebuenosaires.com) has become a de rigueur stop for the Wallpaper* magazine set and the place where the rock groups U2 and Franz Ferdinand held concert after-parties. On summer Fridays, Tom Rixton, a co-owner and English record producer, spins what he calls “stupid party music for girls to dance to.” The 18 rooms start at $115.
**looks like we're taking over the right place!**
Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (Avenida Alvear 1661; 54-11-5171-1234; www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com), opened in July 2006, has 164 rooms split between the renovated 1934 Duhau family mansion and a recent wing. Rooms start at around $370.
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
The Argentine Grape Rush ... we're on it.
From this weekend’s Globe & Mail :
I am trying to savour this innocent period in South American wine history while I can. It won't last, I know.
Unlike most other grape-growing regions, Chile and Argentina seem to be in a weird economic vortex where the quality of the wine is rising faster than the prices.
I know what some of you are thinking. As regular imbibers of more popular wines from Bordeaux, California and Australia, you are under the impression that such a scenario is not possible. After all, the tried-and-true Bordeaux economic model -- much copied in California and to some extent Australia -- dictates that a 10-per-cent improvement in quality from one year to the next justifies a 50-per-cent price increase. Conversely, when quality drops, well, prices continue rising, only not as sharply -- say, by a modest 10 to 20 per cent.
Meanwhile, Chile and Argentina continue to go from strength to strength each year while managing to keep a snug cork on prices. There are adjustments, of course, but they tend to be very modest. How ironic in the case of Argentina, given its infamous recent history with hyperinflation across all other areas of the economy. But hey, wine prices often make a mockery of conventional economics.
The result: Adventurous consumers won't find a bigger selection of exciting values, particularly in the $12-to-$18 range, from anywhere else in the world.
But there's a downside. The value vortex won't last forever. Clearly, the word is out about Chile and has been for some time, evidenced by big-money investments of blue-chip players such as Robert Mondavi from California and the Mouton Rothschild clan from France.
And now the Argentine grape rush is in full swing, led by three illustrious names from, yes, inflation-happy Bordeaux: the LCF Rothschild Group, superstar consultant Michel Rolland, and the dynamic hemisphere-hopping duo of Jacques and François Lurton. I suspect it won't be long before these shrewd Old World explorers will want to earn back more than just air miles for their trouble. Indeed, the Lurton brothers have already come out with a $50 Chilean red based on carmenère, a grape many connoisseurs scoff at.
The moral is, if you haven't hoisted your share of underpriced gems from South America yet -- or laid down a few cellar-worthy beauties for sharp-buyer bragging rights in a decade or two -- you might want to do it now.
I am trying to savour this innocent period in South American wine history while I can. It won't last, I know.
Unlike most other grape-growing regions, Chile and Argentina seem to be in a weird economic vortex where the quality of the wine is rising faster than the prices.
I know what some of you are thinking. As regular imbibers of more popular wines from Bordeaux, California and Australia, you are under the impression that such a scenario is not possible. After all, the tried-and-true Bordeaux economic model -- much copied in California and to some extent Australia -- dictates that a 10-per-cent improvement in quality from one year to the next justifies a 50-per-cent price increase. Conversely, when quality drops, well, prices continue rising, only not as sharply -- say, by a modest 10 to 20 per cent.
Meanwhile, Chile and Argentina continue to go from strength to strength each year while managing to keep a snug cork on prices. There are adjustments, of course, but they tend to be very modest. How ironic in the case of Argentina, given its infamous recent history with hyperinflation across all other areas of the economy. But hey, wine prices often make a mockery of conventional economics.
The result: Adventurous consumers won't find a bigger selection of exciting values, particularly in the $12-to-$18 range, from anywhere else in the world.
But there's a downside. The value vortex won't last forever. Clearly, the word is out about Chile and has been for some time, evidenced by big-money investments of blue-chip players such as Robert Mondavi from California and the Mouton Rothschild clan from France.
And now the Argentine grape rush is in full swing, led by three illustrious names from, yes, inflation-happy Bordeaux: the LCF Rothschild Group, superstar consultant Michel Rolland, and the dynamic hemisphere-hopping duo of Jacques and François Lurton. I suspect it won't be long before these shrewd Old World explorers will want to earn back more than just air miles for their trouble. Indeed, the Lurton brothers have already come out with a $50 Chilean red based on carmenère, a grape many connoisseurs scoff at.
The moral is, if you haven't hoisted your share of underpriced gems from South America yet -- or laid down a few cellar-worthy beauties for sharp-buyer bragging rights in a decade or two -- you might want to do it now.
Thursday, February 1, 2007
!Bienvenido!
Welcome to the adventures of the excessively fabulous.
One Southern Hemisphere
Two Countries
Three Modes of Transportation
Four Drink Minimum
Five Destinations
Six SPF Maximum
Seven Excessively Fabulous Girls
No matter how you do the math, it's infinite Trouble.
* buenos aires * colonia * montevideo * punta del este * mendoza *
One Southern Hemisphere
Two Countries
Three Modes of Transportation
Four Drink Minimum
Five Destinations
Six SPF Maximum
Seven Excessively Fabulous Girls
No matter how you do the math, it's infinite Trouble.
* buenos aires * colonia * montevideo * punta del este * mendoza *
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